Building Our Reputation as Carefully

as Your Transmission

This information is provided by D & J Transmissions, to help you learn about possible indicators of trouble. Taking a few
minutes to read it will better acquaint you with the
services we provide and allow you to learn more
about the proper care of the automatic/standard
transmission in your vehicle.

Free Inspection & Diagnosis.  A specialist will inspect and evaluate your vehicle and provide a clear explanation of any problems.

At D & J Transmissions, we do not specialize in “everything” as some shops do.  Our focus is transmission and transmission related service only.  With the complexities of today’s late model vehicles drive-trains, specializing in transmission service only, ensures that we fix the problem right the first time.

We service all makes & models of:

Passenger Vehicles, Trucks, Vans, Sport Utilities, 4X4’s & RV’s.  There is almost no job that we are not equipped to handle.

4 X 4

CV Joints, U-Joints & Axles

Free Vehicle Inspection & Diagnosis

Most Extended After Market Warranties Honored

Transmission Service is our Specialty

Manual & Automatic

Imports & Domestic Vehicles

Front Wheel Drive

Here are a few helpful hints that will keep your transmission working properly for miles to come.

Check your transmission fluid once a week. With transmission in park and the parking brake on start the engine, check the transmission dip stick to make sure the fluid level is between the high and low marks. Have your vehicle transmission fluid changed once a year or every 12,000-15,000 miles. Check your parking space for spots and signs of leaking. Any dark marks, which are wet to the touch and look red or brown on your finger, are reason for concern and you should have them checked out by your local transmission shop. Whenever you fill your vehicle with fuel you should make a quick check of the radiator and make sure nothing has stuck to the front of it stopping the flow of air through the radiator.

A. First check your transmission fluid level and condition. If the level is low fill it to the proper level indicated on the dip stick and try putting the vehicle in gear again if nothing happens have a friend help you check that the shift linkage on the transmission is moving when you move the shifter. If it moves you have an internal transmission problem and need to find a reputable transmission repair facility in your area work on your vehicle to either repair or replace your transmission..

A. If your oil is really burnt & you go ahead and change it, sometimes the new oil stirs up a lot of contamination in the transmission, which might cause shift problems. The problem was already there. It just needed you to do something for it to show itself. Ask the tech if apart from the oil being burnt was there anything in the bottom of the pan, like clutch particles or metal particles. A good way to see these particles is in direct sunlight. You should call the shop that performed your transmission service and explain your problems; they should invite you back and double-check their work. An improperly installed or cracked transmission filter could cause slipping and erratic shifting concerns. If the service was done right you more than likely need a transmission repair or to replace the transmission.

A. First, how many miles are on your car? Second, have you ever serviced the transmission? Start by checking the fluid. Is it clean or burnt? Cherry red is clean and brown is burnt.
Next, check the adjustment of the kick down cable. Next have the governor check by a transmission technician. If no problems are found you may need to have the transmission repaired or replaced.

A. You need to have a transmission repair facility road test your vehicle and scan the computer for any transmission diagnostic trouble codes. It sounds like your transmission is going in to what we call limp mode, 3rd gear only. The transmission computer detects a problem in the transmission 3 consecutive times and puts the vehicle into limp mode or safety mode. Depending upon the reason or code that is found it may be a small problem or a large one. It just depends on what the problem is. Most transmission repair facilities perform this check out for free as we do, but if your local shop doesn't, call around and you will find someone who will.

A. Check your transmission fluid. It may be low. If it is not low you may need a service/flush. You could change the fluid but remember that the torque converter will need to be flushed out as well as the rest of the fluid. Your local transmission shop should be able to help you out with this. If you find signs of debris in the transmission pan during the service your will need to have the transmission repaired or replaced.

A. The first thing you should do is to check the fluid level. Pay attention to the color and smell of the fluid. Cherry red is good. Brown is bad. If the fluid is low or brown, service the fluid and filter first then test-drive the car. Transmissions like fresh fluid and filters. I'm not too excited about synthetic fluid, unless the manufacturer calls for it. If the problem continues you'll want to have a professional scan the computer for transmission codes. The result of the scan will determine the direction you'll need to take from there.

A. A transmission service includes changing the transmission fluid, pan gasket and filter where applicable. Some vehicle manufacturers, mainly Honda and Acura do not have a pan or an accessible filter so a service on these vehicles is basically a drain and fill of new transmission fluid.

A Transmission Flush includes every thing in a service along with changing all of the fluid inside of the transmission and torque converter. There are various methods and machines for this, we prefer to disconnect one of the transmission cooler lines and put it into a bucket to drain. Often the simple solution is best.

A. You will only get 1/4 to 1/2 of the fluid from a transmission when you service it because you generally cannot drain the torque converter. This is where transmission flushes make the difference. If the fluid was very dirty to start, it contaminated the new fluid. It will not hurt to change it several times or have it professionally flushed. I do not like and use the synthetic fluids unless recommended by the manufacturer. They cost nearly 5 times as much and if you regularly service your transmission the fluid doesn’t have time to breakdown. Save the money and spend it on your next service.

A. I hope you mean harsh shifts. This is most likely caused by the PCM seeing the slipping and it trying to save the trans by raising line pressure. Have a local transmission shop scan the vehicle’s computer for codes and proceed from there.

A. If the cable is not misadjusted, specifically too tight, you more then likely need a clutch. If you have the right tools, some jack stands, a jack, and a manual have at it. It will be a good project for you. If you’re not inclined call us or, if you are not in the San Diego area, call your local transmission & clutch shop.

A. Check the fluid level in your clutch system. It is normally under the hood just above the driver's feet. If it's low check the clutch master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder and see if they are leaking. If one of them is replace the cylinder and bleed the system to remove any air trapped in the cylinders and lines. You may need a professional if you are not able to get the pedal to feel right. Bleeding "getting the air out of the system" is difficult in some cases.

A. If your noise goes away when you step on the clutch and returns when you let the clutch out in neutral, along with going away in fourth gear you are listening to the noise from a bad input bearing and or bad input and counter gears in your transmission. Check the fluid level or change it. You will probably need to have it repaired it or replaced.

A. First check the fluid in the reservoir. If it's low check the clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder and line connecting them to see if they are leaking. Replace the cylinder that is leaking or the line and bleed the system to remove any air trapped in the cylinders and lines. If the fluid level is ok you may have some air your clutch hydraulic system.

A. Before I say what I think please take your car out for a drive and perform one simple test, speed up to about 35 MPH and try shifting the transmission through all the forward gears only, "NOT REVERSE". First gear will normally be a little harder than the others but you should be able to get it into gear, all the others should engage smoothly. If any of them are difficult to engage the transmission synchronizers and or sliders are more than likely bad. All the signs point toward needing your transmission rebuilt.

A. You need to put a clutch kit in your car. The noise you are hearing is the release bearing or throw out bearing squealing. It’s dry from a lack of grease. You could only replace the throw out bearing but the amount of time is nearly the same to replace the entire clutch kit "pressure plate, clutch disc, throw-out bearing, pilot bushing or bearing". Be sure to have the flywheel resurface or replaced. If you don't the clutch life will be drastically reduced and you may end up with a shudder or shake when you let out the clutch pedal.